#11 Europe: On To The Austrian Alps (Summer 2011)
#11 Europe: On To The Austrian Alps (Summer 2011)
Something Old, Something New
Saying “Goodbye” to the Dolomites again.
“Passo Pordoi is the only pass that always seems to have rain when we are there,” “This is where the East German family sheltered us from the rain in their car,” “This is where we cut your hair while we waited for the rain to stop,” and “I remember being so hot on this curve.” It was energizing to have the flood of memories rush through our brains and it was satisfying to get refreshed about the origin of fragmented memories.
During our descent from Passo di Costalunga I called for a time-out when we were below the grand Rosengarten peaks. I vividly remembered the mountain huts and the rustic old hotels we were seeing along the road but they weren’t attached to any particular place in my memory. I could see that the tricky junction in the road on the steep descent hadn’t given me the time to anchor them on my mental map in the past and I wanted to pause to finish that work. I stopped, looked around, and took in the experience with all of my senses so as to give the images a proper context in my memory, to give them a better place to reside.
Moments later we were on a road to Bolzano that we were sure we’d taken years ago but gradually became convinced that we were both wrong. It was instead a new adventure and we quickly re-tooled our brains that had been trying to make matches between our memory banks and what we were seeing to being ready to take it all in as a new experience. We immediately enjoyed the sense of discovery once we made the switch to it being a first experience.
Going downhill required many rest stops because the constant braking was so fatiguing to our hands and the pauses underscored our prior conclusion that there was no good way to get from Bolzano into the Dolomites without doing a difficult road. We also noted how the first languages of the villages alternated between German and Italian even though we were in Italy and were moving farther away from Austria. We admired the many rustic images, including the artisan work on a fence. And we laughed at the familiar experience of peeling off all of our warm layers needed in the mountains as we passed through the wall of heat as we approached valley-floor Bolzano.
Pausing to admire the detailing on a roadside fence.
And then there was Reschenpass that had been so difficult when we traveled from the opposite direction that we’d used the rare bike shuttle service instead of pressing on. Bill assured me that it would be better this year because we were going the other way over the pass but I recalled deciding at the time that the other side was forbidding as well.
But the several days we took getting to and over the pass were filled with more positive, new experiences than redo’s of the old, bad memories. There was now a completed bike route--almost all of it dedicated multi-use pass--most of the way from Bolzano to the pass. We did the dreaded white-knuckle segment of the highway on lovely new bike path instead of the road. Granted, the 15% grades and 7 switchbacks still made it an athletic event, but we only had to contend with inexperienced descending cyclists instead of potentially intoxicated drivers on their cell phones on the windy, scenic road.
Each day towards the pass was filled with hard work for our bodies; our minds however marveled at the success of the new bike route instead of wondering if this was the day we’d die on our bikes. By the time we made it to the pass, we’d decreed that this Passo Resia-Merano route was now the busiest bike route we’d ever traveled--busier than the iconic Donau River. We were stunned and wondered how it had been transformed from a hardy-cyclotourist-only route to a family fest in 4 years but soon it became clear.
A family of 4 was traveling on 2 heavily loaded electric bikes.
And even better news awaited me at the Resia Pass: it wasn’t the dreaded pass I had remembered. I finally checked my own “Country Details” file on velofun.us to discover that we’d taken the bike shuttle service to the upper reaches of Resia Pass, not over it. Resia Pass benefited from a long-overdo correction in my mental notes and will now be known as the gateway to the delightful family bike path to Merano. And the experience of the approach to the pass underscored that riding an old route could both conjure up old memories and create a startlingly new experiences of discovery.
More Unexpected Changes
The Tourism Industry
One of the unwelcome and unexpected challenges of our abbreviated 2011 touring season was the difficulty in securing lodging. Places we’d normally just show-up and grab a room were fully-booked in the moderate price range. Bill’s proficiency with German had him making most of the inquires and many of his evenings were filled with internet searches and phone calls to make reservations. Of course, we were asking “Why is this suddenly a problem?”
We spotted these iconic Donau riders on the newer Merano route.
We were shocked that the Swiss were also gobbling up accommodations in the mountains in 2011. I’m a habitual license plate reader when we are biking and I was stunned at the number of Swiss plates I had seen. We normally go weeks without seeing a single Swiss plate and this summer I was seeing dozens per day.
On a rare night when we had English news on the TV, I happened to learn why we were suddenly competing with the Swiss for rooms. The Euro currency had been tanking in value along with the US dollar when compared to the Swiss Franc. Switzerland is surrounded by Euro-currency countries and its citizens were vacationing in the EU (and the US) in droves this year because of it.
Along with us, the Swiss hospitality industry was suffering from the pressures of these currency issues. The weak dollar and weak Euro meant that travelers with either of those notes in their pockets were avoiding vacationing in Switzerland just like the Swiss themselves. The consequences of these currency issues had devastated the Swiss tourism industry, which was experiencing massive lay-offs and triggering the predictable domino effect within the Swiss economy. It seemed that the Swiss government needed to copy Italy’s “Vacation at Home” campaign to support their hospitality industry, which would have helped us out too.
Trail Chit-Chat
A far more trivial but fascinating change for us this year was the about-face in the reaction of other hikers to our minimalist footwear. Wearing Chaco sandals in the past when hiking always triggered dreary lectures from well-meaning fellow hikers on the trails and wearing our Vibram 5 Fingers last year didn’t help matters. But shockingly, this year we weren’t reprimanded once while wearing our 5 Fingers. Instead, we were greeted with curiosity and frequently had to take 5 minutes out several times a day to answer the inevitable string of questions. It was a stunning change in receptivity.
We guessed that there were several factors contributing to this trail culture change. One difference was in the number of people that had either seen the 5 Fingers in the stores, had a friend who had bought them but didn’t know what to do with them, or had read articles about the glories of minimalist shoes in general. Many skeptics quickly grasped the benefits to the knees but none believed that we weren’t writhing in pain with every footstep on the trails--somehow our calm, smiling faces weren’t convincing enough.
Darn it anyway: more fresh snow in the Alps this summer.
Ironically, it was quicker for us to accept the lecture about our improper footwear and go on than it was to answer so many questions, but we were happy to spread the word. Middle-aged women were by far the most interested and we know why--it’s the knees. Almost every graying woman is seriously distressed when she descends steep trails because of her knees (we can see it in the way they hold their bodies and trekking poles) and they are riveted when I say that I could instantly do a 3,000’ steep descent without knee pain when I made the switch to forefoot striking (becoming surefooted took longer). Their husbands were usually very quiet, with some carefully looking the other way during the discussion. Only the few men with significant knee pain seemed genuinely interested in the alternative footwear.
Ironman Walter with Mr. Barefoot.
Hiking from the Austrian Ski Villages
Where are the Trail Runners?
Outclassed: these guys were definitely in a whole other league when it came to hiking.
Much to our surprise, several of these villages were major destinations for families with small children. Veritable mini theme parks were pulsing with young children and their parents at the bases or tops of the lower lifts. The shift in clientele was evident on the trails too with most of the hikers being out of shape, overweight, and not going very far. We were happy for them all that they were out enjoying scenery but we missed seeing our mountain mentors--mentors we consider an essential part of our Alps experience. We have significantly improved our skills over the last 6 years by studying the gait and gear of the more capable hikers but in these areas we were more often modeling, rather than observing, “how it’s done.”
August 2009: Delighted with our first barefoot hiking day.
At Imst, each day’s hike began with a 90 minute routine to get to the trail heads. We had to walk about a half hour to board the bus to take us to the lift. We budgeted more wait-time than usual because the bus only ran every 2 hours. And riding the 2 old chair lifts to the top took about a half hour. This 3 hour ‘transportation overhead’ each day at Imst was the worst of any of our stays and it severely shortened our hikes. In addition to trail access issues, it was hard not to notice that in Austria we are also more likely to end up hiking in mud or on an unexpectedly more dangerous trail than when we are in the Dolomites.
Where’s the Sun?
The weather was a real disappointment this summer, both in Austria and in Italy. We didn’t have to completely sit-out the storms, but Bill was frequently instituting “Plan B” for our hikes. The crowning disappointment came in the last weeks of our stay when it snowed mid-day in August in Obergurgl, Austria, poised at about 6,300’. Two years prior in Obergurgl we’d slipped off our Chaco hiking sandals on a warm August day and experienced our first minutes of barefoot hiking. We were instantly hooked and racked up about 15 hours of barefoot hiking that week, much of it on rocky slopes.
August 2011: Hoping to barefoot at the same spot.
We squeezed in 30 minutes of barefooting the day we arrived by bike in the heat but the next day the temperatures dropped from the mid 80’s F into the low 30’s. Determined to have our event, we headed out in the the drizzle. The drizzle turned to rain and then pelting hail. When our feet became too numb from the cold, I slipped on my sturdy flip-flops and Bill snuggled into his Vibram 5 Fingers and we pressed on. We surrendered to defeat only when the unforecasted lightning storm presented itself. The persistent hail and winds were so fierce that they had closed the lift we’d taken up and we had a longer than expected walk back to town.
As we arrived back to the small village of Obergurgl, the streets and buildings were turning white from the blanket of hail. Others chose to wait-out the storm in the portico of the small market, but we headed back out in it with our groceries tucked under our ponchos. Not waiting had been the right thing to do that day because by the time we reached our lovely apartment, the unrelenting hail had turned to snow, which continued falling for 5 more hours--and this was August.
Most of the snow was gone from the village streets the next morning but that day’s hike was almost entirely done in snow even though we were doing lower elevation “Plan B.” We wracked up far more hours hiking in snow in our minimalist footwear this year than we ever intended to do, but that was part of the reality of the “Summer of 2011” for us. We learned that it had been a generally cool, wet summer for much of Europe, not just for those of us in the mountains. The weather had been so bad that European beer sales were down significantly, severely cutting into the brewers profits during their most important season.
Our barefooting in Obergurgl wasn’t a complete bust--we did have 2 snow-free hiking days left before we headed back to Italy over the iconic Timmelsjoch/Passo Rombo on our bikes but we had hoped for more time to indulge ourselves.
Making our way back into the Dolomites.
Bill’s end-game for 2011 was rewritten in July and on September 1 we began following the revised homeward-bound plan. The extra week in the Dolomites turned out to be a time of reflection and celebration. We had both turned 60 this spring and we had earlier enjoyed the humor of us finally getting our fitness concepts right--albeit a little late.
Reading the “Younger Next Year” book during our spring RV trip in the US SW had bumped up and anchored Bill’s commitment to his fitness. The chance purchase of a heart rate monitor around the same time quickly had him confessing “I’ve been doggin’ it.” Another chance purchase of the “P90X Extreme Home Fitness” DVD’s to counter my resistance to resistance training had revolutionized our cross-training for this summer’s cycling--something we only understood in hindsight. And our last 15 months of experimentation with minimalist footwear and the obligatory forefoot striking gait had transformed our hiking.
Coming in for a landing after flying down the steep trail.
One of my evolving goals for 2011 that was seemingly neglected was retrieving running as a fitness activity, but as a forefoot striker. Putting the time into it since I injured my foot at the end of our spring RV trip just hadn’t worked out. But on our very last hike in the Dolomites I answered Bill’s challenge to speed down a steep trail the only way I could make the time limit, which was by jogging. It was only the 4th day of my new found ability as a competent steep descender, but since it was our last sports day for a week I figured I could risk an injury. Thirty minutes of jogging and I just barely met Bill’s time challenge to reach the road but better yet, I discovered that I was sufficiently well adapted to the jogging motion from our speed work on trails that I was unscathed. Yet another unexpected accomplishment to celebrate after the culmination of our more athletic 3 months.
Field testing a lawn chair in the Augsburg, Germany botanical garden.
The long trip to Amsterdam, mostly by train, went smoothly. Bill had built in 2 layover days, one in Germany and one in the Netherlands, to keep us relaxed and rested for the long flight. Heading home in mid-September instead of December as was our usual rhythm meant that we weren’t greeted with frigid temperatures at every stop along the way. However it was still hurricane season and so we were again blasted by strong, cold winds in Amsterdam.
Once home, it would be time to turn our attention to implementing our new traveling lifestyle as snowbird hikers in the US. This year a big truck and an all-season camper were on the shopping list along with more usual items, like new Vibram 5 Finger shoes and toe-pocket socks.
More images from our time in the Austrian Alps: